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Drinking tea outdoors, in the wilds of Portland, Oregon

Written by: Cinnabar, published on September 1st, 2010

The topic of this month’s Association of Tea Bloggers sponsored Blog Carnival was to describe a memorable outdoor tea drinking experience. I like tea. I also like flora, fauna and the outdoors parts of the world. But I don’t often appreciate or experience them concurrently. So in order to fulfill my agreement to contribute to the carnival I figured I’d just have to design and execute a “drink tea outdoors” plan. This sounded like a good idea anyway, particularly in this winding down period of summer.

As it so often does, time slipped past way too quickly and I still hadn’t actually had or documented my suitable “outdoor tea drinking experience,” before I began rapidly running out of time before the publication deadline. This was around the time that I was going to be spending some time visiting family in Portland. So, naturally my thoughts led to speculation about the mobility of the exquisite Gongfu Cha tea experience and the idea that I’d bring a nice setup of tea, tea tools and accoutrements with me. Once there I’d prepare and experience the tea outside.

In this vision of the perfect idyllic outdoor session of Gongfu Cha there would be no need for electricity and the tea would be carefully prepared, served and drunk, surrounded by the lushness of green plants with garden ornaments serving as visual accompaniment. The original plan was somewhat elaborate. It involved placing the following into a box to bring along on the road trip south: Chouzhou stove, several pieces of charcoal (in plastic bags so as not to smudge their blackness onto anything inappropriate), Butane fuel canister and hob (for lighting the charcoal), perforated and enameled steel sheet (to place the charcoal on so that it didn’t slip down into the flame of the Butane burner), Chouzhou kettle, canister of Dan Cong Oolong, Chouzhou teapot in its silk pouch and box, complete set of rosewood tea tools, metal strainer with stand, set of porcelain cups with matching fair cup.

When it came down to the actual packing, I decided that bringing the many pieces of stuff involved in heating the water with charcoal was too much trouble, and potentially even a bit silly, so I substituted those items with an electric Kamjove induction kettle with its corded base. This was a conceptual compromise since I would then need an electrical outlet in the garden, but I figured I could go this route with minimal shame.

When I was actually in Portland, with few outside concerns, no need for formality and confronted with the sunny pleasantry of a beautiful garden with abundant foliage and flowers, I jettisoned the whole plan of a carefully measured and exactly executed outdoor Gongfu Ceremony on a whim.

That afternoon I had brewed some Rou Gui Oolong in a large glass teapot that belongs to the owner of the house, and immediately after the impulse hit me, I carried the teapot, along with a plain white ceramic cup, outside to drink pleasantly and entirely contentedly in the garden.

So in the space of fewer than a couple of days, the mechanics of the staged experience were pared down drastically to the basic act of spontaneously walking outside with some tea. There was no plan, no premeditation, just a simple change from in to out. It was quite gloriously simple and perfect, and better suited to the vibrancy of the irrepressible green surroundings.

Links to the rest of this month’s Tea Blog Carnival entries are available on the host blog, Black Dragon Tea Bar.

Pictures of objects

Written by: Cinnabar, published on August 23rd, 2010

The Face of Luck

Glass, water, wood and electricity

Symbiotic Relationship

Detail

Wood

NOTE: The first and fourth photos were taken by Chris, our occasional guest photographer.

On the Origin of Tea-Drinking Species

Written by: Jason Walker, published on August 20th, 2010

Among loose-leaf, tea-drinking humans in the office, you will observe 3 main species:

Homo Laborus glutto. Glutto chugs tea, and is identified by the enormous mug at its workstation. Just as salmon instinctively find their way upstream, you can will observe glutto’s well-worn path and bee-line movements toward the nearest toilet several times each day. If you are of the glutto variety, you are better served by a tea-maker. Zarafina has one, and Breville’s will soon be available in the US.

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Homo Laborus ritus. Ritus uses tea as an oasis of calm, a form of comfort in the workaday jungle. Observing ritus in its natural habitat, you will see a creature of habit. The tea may change, but the process follows a form. Think of a bird’s nest- each bird constructs a little differently. Ritus may use a single serving pot to avoid over-steeping tea. Other ritus fill their own muslin or filter bags. Ritus, however, may be labeled as time-wasters by gluttoes.

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Homo Laborus sippus. The Sipper adapts the behavior of glutto or ritus, modifying the practices of either. Whether quenching thirst, seeking a break, or using tea as a social lubricant, sippus will use a variety of tools, including a brew mug. Although not producing the quality of tea ritus is known for, sippus can still pause and savor tea more than gluttus.


Guest post provided by Jason Walker of Walker Tea Review.  Jason’s site hosts online tea tastings and video tea reviews.

Tea Review: Chicago Tea Garden, Golden Bi Luo

Written by: Cinnabar, published on August 13th, 2010

Chicago Tea Garden is the name of the company opened recently by Tony Gebely, the blogger who writes World of Tea, and his partner Erin Murphy. Through a set of exceptionally wonderful circumstances they have connected and joined forces with David Lee Hoffman, procurer of great Chinese teas, who was profiled in the film All in This Tea. The partnership has led to the introduction of some extraordinarily interesting teas into the tea market, and I have had the opportunity to taste a couple of them, including the Golden Bi Luo.

Looks aren’t everything, especially in the world of tea, but one of the things that struck me when I first got a look at the sample of Golden Bi Luo was that it was one of the most beautiful teas I’ve ever seen in dry leaf form. Some of the half-ball style, lightly oxidized, rolled oolong teas from Taiwan are quite pretty, but these little golden swirls are exceptionally lovely to look at. Its appearance made me quite curious to find out more about it.

The company’s description:

David Lee Hoffman has been traveling China for over 20 years. His work has led to vast improvements in the quality of tea available to the West. David is especially proud of this tea. Golden Bi Luo is a high-grade black tea made in Yunnan Province in the style of Jiangsu Province’s Green Bi Luo Chun. The name means “snail spring” — spring because this tea is harvested in the spring; snail because the two leaves and down-covered tips are carefully rolled into tight spirals that slowly unfurl to release more flavor during steeping. The spirals are formed using three different hand movements in a heated wok. This tea produces a golden, creamy-tasting liquor with sweet notes of vanilla.

The tea also smelled wonderful, and as I expected, it brewed into a wonderful liquor. Black teas from Yunnan province in China are some of the best black teas I’ve ever tasted, and this tea is no exception. It has the nice malty, sweet flavor that is typical of a good quality Yunnan Hong Cha. As stated on the company’s website this tea can stand up admirably to multiple steepings, and I found this to be the case in my tastings of it.

If you’ve never tasted any Yunnan Hong Cha this one would be a very good tea to start with. If you’ve already tasted other Yunnan black teas and enjoyed them, this one will certainly live up to your expectations.

Note: Bi Luo Chun (碧螺春) translates literally to “Green Snail Spring,” a tea named for its color, spiral shape, and the season during which it is picked.

An interview with Bodhidharma

Written by: Cinnabar, published on August 2nd, 2010


“After travelling and teaching around the country Bodhidharma settled at Shaolin-ssu (Shorinji), a monastery on Hao-shan Mountain near Loyang, in what is now Honan province. The legend says that Bodhidharma remained seated in meditation before the wall of the Shaolin Monastery for nine years.While Bodhidharma was meditating, according to the legend, he became sleepy, and his eyelids grew heavy. In frustration, he tore off his eyelids and threw them on the floor, where they became the first tea plants—used from that time as a mild stimulant.”

“Later, tea-drinking became a habit among the Zen practitioners, to keep awake. It also grew into aesthetic tea-ceremony.”*

GongfuGirl: Before we begin the interview, let me just say on behalf of myself and all of the people I know throughout the world who are deeply immersed in tea and tea culture, thank you for the enormous sacrifice you made in order to bring about the existence of the tea plant. We are all indebted to you for bringing something into the world that brings us so much joy.

Bodhidharma: I must confess that I was compelled by rage and expediency at the time. So despite the great benefit it brought to the world, I can’t really say that this is what I was thinking about as I tore the flesh and tossed it to the ground. But, you’re welcome in any case!

G: I became quite exhausted reading through all of the various documented histories of your life, trying to reconcile the inconsistencies and the truth from the myth and conjecture. In the end I decided that it was probably best to let you speak for yourself, clearing up any matters that you felt were misunderstood, or had been transmitted incorrectly through the last several centuries.

B: I have had plenty of exposure to other people displaying similar weakness as evidenced by frustration, but I don’t have respect for the pursuit of knowledge through the written word in the first place. As you should know, in my teachings I stressed the importance of the direct experience of meditation and confrontation of what is real as the only viable paths to understanding.

G: I understand, at least to the limited extent I am capable of understanding, but your own history is a pretty concrete matter.

B: Not really. As you will have gleaned through the reading you’ve done, my role in history is something more and less than literal history. I have been placed into convenient roles in history, connecting some of the ideas and threads of understanding and practice to each other, as those connections became necessary, which is not the same thing as actual things I said and did as a living breathing person.

G: So what you’re saying is that it is not the details and minutiae of your life that are most important, that over the past several centuries you’ve been stuck into several important metaphorical slots that needed filling?

B: Yes, pretty much. You show evidence of being much too tightly attached to the use of words to convey meaning.

G: I am sure that you are right, but what do I have for better tools than words themselves?

B: You have the indirect transmission of the pure experience of drinking tea. This, brought to other people and put forth as pure experience is the most important thing. You can talk and write about it, but obviously the best benefit that someone is going to gain from all of this rain of words is in bringing the seeker to the tea cup. You should be exhorting people to drink tea with as much attention and mindfulness to their own experience as is possible.

G: I’ll attempt to pay more attention to that in the future. So you do believe that tea is, in itself, one of the paths that is direct and beneficial to the pursuit of enlightenment?

B: Sure, but given the choice I’d probably rather tell people to try staring at a wall for a few years. That sure sorts out the seekers who aren’t serious about practice. [laughs]

G: Does it bother you that so many accounts of you and your encounters with other people portray you as a rather surly, wild-eyed barbarian who tended to elicit physical violence and confrontations?

B: Not really, although I did feel a little bad about Dazu Huike cutting off his own arm, but I don’t know how else he could have proven that his intention was as it needed to be. And there was all of that chaos in the Shaolin Temple. That was bound to lead to some legends involving fighting. And really, sixth century China wasn’t a very calm, peaceable time or place in history. That emperor is just lucky that I didn’t knock any of his teeth out in retaliation.

G: You mean, those weren’t peaceful, calm, spiritually exalted times like we have now?

B: Right. [laughs]

G: It’s interesting contrasting historical accounts of your life, specifically in relation to tea history and culture, with those of Lu Yu, the Tang Dynasty tea scholar who lived and wrote a mere 200 years closer to now than you did. How can you account for the discrepancies in stories and speculations for you, while his life and writings are mostly calm and consistent?

B: Well, the most obvious answer is that I’m a more malleable figure within Chinese history because I came into China from the outside. My origins and language and everything else were a bit of an obstacle and that leaves me a more flexible figure, open to fabrication of tales. But the other thing is that I’m more well known to others in many different countries and areas of thought and study, and as the first Patriarch of the Chan school of Buddhism in China (and Zen Buddhism in Japan) there are more people who “know” about me, so there are more people making things up. And not to disparage what your whole topic of interest is built around, but someone whose entire fame rests on writing a book about tea just can’t compete with someone credited with bringing an elemental branch of a major religion into an important part of the world. Even a person known for training the Shaolin Monks in a more refined way of their art form is bound to be granted more fame than someone who studied and wrote about tea. After all, I’m the 28th Patriarch in the lineage directly descended from Shakyamuni Buddha – the original Buddha – so people are going to consider me more important.

G: But you would think that because of that, and because your actual time on earth was not that long ago compared to some other figures in history, the records would be better.

B: It’s possible that the areas of inquiry that you are looking at are simply more fluid than you expect. I don’t really think that this is what is important. The knowledge and understanding and concepts that are attributed to me are valid and valuable, whether I actually said and did what I am said to or not. You know as well as I do that tea was in the world and known in China as an important beverage and medicine long before my eyelids were ripped from my face in a fit of impatience at my own lack of perfect meditation in front of a wall in a cave.

G: So, changing the subject a bit, how do you feel about the Daruma dolls that they sell in Japan that are modeled after you?

B: Well, as you can see, I look nothing like that in person, and that thing they say about my legs and arms atrophying during that same nine-year mediation that was briefly interrupted by ripping off my eyelids was entirely made up. I still have arms and legs, just no eyelids. I’m not pleased that they’re using my name and image for something as silly and superstitious as a good luck charm, but I guess that’s the kind of thing that happens all the time among the masses, not just in Japan, but all over the world. But I was surely not involved with such artifice and absurdity when I was alive – I was too busy getting into disagreements with the Chinese Buddhists who thought they already understood everything. But I have to admit that I am slightly charmed by the way those figures look…but only after the eyes get painted in.

G: As the progenitor of both tea and Chan (Zen), how do you feel about the ways that the ceremonial expression of tea has become integral to the practice of Zen in Japan?

B: It seems to me that this was quite a natural development. According to those who credit me as the wellspring of tea itself, the divine liquor was provided to the world initially as an aid to meditation, providing a greater level of attentiveness and focus. It’s a good tool for religious practitioners of all stripes to make use of.

G: But do you feel that the Japanese way of tea is the ultimate and only valid way of studying and practicing the art of tea in terms of a direct relationship with religious practice?

B: Certainly not. I spent my best years in China, and brought Chan practice with me. Tea developed in different directions there, but is certainly no less important, just experienced in a less formalized manner. Quite frankly I’m a lot more comfortable with the Chinese way, but that’s because I never spent any time in Japan, and Sado developed long after I was dead. I think that ultimately the connection between tea and religious practice – or even personal, secular experience – doesn’t need to be so closely analyzed. It’s a logical connection and a natural relationship. The tea plant is significant enough to take on the important role of yielding an essential, ceremonial beverage. No other plant has the richness and variety and noble qualities to be able to attain a position of such significance.

G: That sounds like a good place to end our discussion. Thank you so much for granting us your time and insight.

*Excerpted from Bodhidharma: Stories and Legends

This post is a contribution to the third Tea Blog Carnival, sponsored by the Association of Tea Bloggers. The main post for the carnival can be read on Walker Tea Review. Jason Walker’s summary of the theme of this Blog Carnival:

Some are heroes, some are masters, and some are just great folks to sit down and enjoy a cup with. You decide which category to place these tea people.

Photographs of wet things

Written by: Cinnabar, published on July 28th, 2010

These are the first of a handful of tea-related photographs that don’t fit with any written articles.

Water

Steam

Wet with Puer

An Assemblage of Teaware

Tea and Wine Pairing

The UK’s Guild of Fine Food just announced its 2010 Great Taste Awards, and eight of the teas sold by Canton Tea Company were awarded gold star ratings. Bai Lin Gong Fu Black Tea (pictured in the accompanying photograph) received a three star gold – the highest award in its class, and a rating awarded to only 91 out of the 6000 products entered.

This is a brilliant result for us: Over 25 tea specialists from the UK and Europe submitted hundreds of green teas, yet we still took over half the awards in the category. It shows that buying direct from smaller producers means your tea just tastes better.
- Canton Tea Co founder, Jennifer Wood

In celebration of their success, Canton Tea Company has partnered with Steepster.com to offer a special Gold Award Tea Taster Pack that contains 10 gram samples of each of the eight award winners for $19.95 including worldwide shipping. The offer is only available through Sunday July 25th, and it is an excellent opportunity to try some excellent teas.

While you’re there, consider purchasing some of the
Yu Lan Dan Cong Oolong
at the same time. It’s fabulous. Read about it here and on Lainie Sips.

Will tea enable you to live forever?

Written by: Cinnabar, published on July 12th, 2010

Probably not, but Antisa Khvichava (ანტისა ხვიჩავა), the woman who celebrated her 130th birthday in Georgia (That would be საქართველო, the country located in the Caucasus Mountains, not the peach-growing state in the Southern United States where they drink sweet tea) this month, worked in the tea fields until forty-five years ago, when she retired at the age of eighty-five.

Over the rough course of many decades during which her country has seen a great deal of political turmoil and transformation, and during which she must have experienced a somewhat grueling agricultural subsistence lifestyle, she has outlasted even her official documentation. Although she does possess a Soviet-era passport which cites her birth as July 8th 1880, her birth certificate has been lost, resulting in some doubts as to the authenticity of the claim that she is truly the oldest living person today.

The woman, who lives with her 40-year-old grandson in an idyllic vine-covered country house in the mountains, retired from her job as a tea and corn picker in 1965, when she was 85, records say.

“I’ve always been healthy, and I’ve worked all my life — at home and at the farm,” said Khvichava, in a bright dress and headscarf, her withering lips rejuvenated by shiny red lipstick. Sitting in the chair and holding her cane, Khvichava spoke quietly through an interpreter since she never went to school to learn Georgian and speaks only the local language, Mingrelian.

- from an article on Yahoo.

To be fair, nothing I read about her indicated that Ms. Khvichava credited years of close contact with tea plants for her longevity. In at least one article, she suggested that it was due to imbibing vodka. (Additionally, the region she lives in is known for longevity, which undoubtedly plays a part.)

The tea industry in Georgia is an interesting one.  Most of today’s crop yield goes to Lipton and other large scale producers for export.   However, alongside the mass-export tea crops, there is also some small family-run orthodox-method specialty tea output, and the tea that it produces is well worth a taste if you can get your hands on some of it.

More information, from the description of one of Georgia’s wonderful teas, available from Nothing But Tea:

Georgia (ex USSR) has many tea growing villagers who manufacture their own tea by hand in their homes. The whole process is completely natural and performed by hand, in the typical white tea way. They pluck buds and tender tips from the bushes, wither them in a single layer over night. Next morning the leaf is hand rolled to curl it and get the fermentation going, and the tea is spread out to dry in the sun. Our roving teaman persuaded a venerable tea making lady in a village near Ozurgeti (in West Georgia) to part with a little of her tea. This unique tea is exclusive to Nothing But Tea, available nowhere else outside of Georgia and only in limited quantities.

The Georgians themselves drink tea, as do people in neighboring countries.  So some efforts are being made towards localizing sales of tea leaves grown in Georgia. This would, of course, benefit Georgian agriculture, which is still trying to recover from the 2008 conflict with Russia, which also damaged the Georgian wine industry.

For more information on agriculture and tea production in Georgia, read this article on Georgian Daily.

For some added flavor, here’s a photograph of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (სვეტიცხოვლის საკათედრო ტაძარი), a Georgian Orthodox cathedral in Mtskheta, Georgia, near the capital city of Tbilis. Its name translates into “the Living Pillar Cathedral.”

Chinese Export Silver Podstakannik

Written by: Cinnabar, published on July 9th, 2010

While I am extremely strict about using only teawares that come from the same culture as the tea I am drinking, I have a soft spot for the misfits, anomalies and enigmas of the world, and also objects that signify an intersection of cultures. The piece of teaware in the accompanying photographs is one of the best examples I’ve ever seen of an odd blend of two different tea cultures and artistic traditions.

The style and form of the object are those of a fairly typical Russian podstakannik. A podstakannik (подстаканник) is a metal tea glass holder, used for drinking black tea in Russia and the Ukraine. Examples generally look a lot like the second image in this post, either with the metal filigree often found in Russian metalwork, or cast with images of Russian myths or history. Many of these items made during the Soviet era have emblematic revolutionary symbols: the hammer and sickle, rockets, or images of revolutionary heroes. But this piece was made in China sometime between the middle of the 19th Century and the very early 20th Century, in a style that is clearly Chinese.

The majority of the Chinese metalwork referred to as “export silver,” due to the fact that it was made in China to be sold to people outside of China, had Chinese designs and motifs, which were in vogue in Western European countries and the United States at the time. But they were made in the forms of utilitarian objects that were not at all Chinese, like napkin rings, salt cellars and western-style teaware. Chinese export silver teaware is generally in the British style, in sets of three pieces: teapot, creamer and sugar bowl.

But this particular piece of teaware was obviously not made to appeal to the tastes or tea practices of the British or American silver buyers, which comprised the primary markets for Chinese export silver. I assume that during this same period of history there must have been some demand within Russia for the works of these highly skilled Chinese silversmiths, but this is the only evidence I’ve seen of a piece that is so specifically Russian.

The style fits the description of items from the third period of Chinese export silver, from 1850-1885. But its form, as a traditional Russian tea object does not fit into anything I’ve found on this period of Chinese production. It does have manufacturer’s marks in Chinese on the bottom of it, but I think that they just say that the item is made of silver, and do not bear the manufacturer’s hallmark. I noticed when I photographed the marks that the bottom round piece was cut from sheet silver. Upon closer inspection of the main body I can see that the entire piece is made from sheet silver, with the patterns cut out and ornamental relief hammered into it. None of it is cast silver. The craftsmanship of the piece is quite marvelous.

For more general info, here’s an excerpt from an Antiques Roadshow article on Chinese Export silver:

All Chinese silver was made by hand, with its elaborate designs hammered out by master Chinese craftsmen. The silver depicts flowers, birds, landscapes, dragons and human figures, the patterns that collectors seek out most often. Since Europeans would spend weeks or months aboard ship to travel to China, they would often spend months there. That was long enough to choose a pattern that could be custom-made while they holidayed. “Many of the pieces you see for sale today were made to order,” Stuart says. “It was primarily for foreigners. The elaborate designs of most of the export silver weren’t to the Chinese tastes.”

It should be noted that the podstakannik’s original glass had been lost or broken probably decades before I ever saw the piece. I replaced it with a standard-sized juice glass that I bought for about $2.00 in a thrift store. It fits it perfectly.

Appropriately, the tea pictured with it is Keemun, a tea grown in China and favored in Russia.

Using a Chou Zhou tea stove to heat water for tea

Written by: Cinnabar, published on July 1st, 2010

After I purchased my Chou Zhou stove from Tea Habitat several months ago the biggest obstacle I faced in learning to use it for tea was finding appropriate charcoal. As Imen of Tea Habitat wrote in this article on the Tea Obsession blog, good charcoal has been hard to get in the United States for some time. But as I wrote a while ago, I was able to find what will hopefully be a reliable source for good quality charcoal. All experiments with this hardwood charcoal so far have been quite successful. It is completely odorless and smokeless and burns long enough for a slow session of tea brewing.

In preparation I read as much as I could find about use of these stoves, and other people’s frustrations and successes. I recognized that one of the most important factors in using the stove successfully would be getting the charcoal pieces into a steady, reliable burning state before placing them into the burning chamber of the tiny stove. So before I even attempted using the tea stove for the first time I purchased a butane-fueled portable burner to use for lighting the charcoal. I have used a couple of different objects as grates over the flame to keep the charcoal from dropping in, but the most effective is a small enameled steel basket intended for use with foods inside a barbecue grill. Using it directly over the flame has warped it, but it works well. One of the other things I tried was a combination of two grills at right angles to each other, but this was awkward and not fine enough of a grate to prevent enough of the small pieces from dropping into the burner. This method of lighting the charcoal with high flame over a burner works quite well and must be done outside, unless you don’t mind sparse flights of fine sparks and ash inside of your house.

After the coals are sufficiently lit, I use a pair of brass chopsticks to place the smallish pieces into the stove. I’ve found that since the stove itself is small and lightweight it’s easiest to fill it with the burning charcoal outside and then bring it inside of the house for tea. One important thing to remember is that the ceramic kettles that come with these stoves need to be filled with water at least a half hour before placing them onto the stove so that they do not crack.

After the water-filled kettle is settled onto the top of the stove it proceeds to heat up steadily to a full boil. I haven’t timed this exactly, but the volume of the kettle is fairly small, so it doesn’t take very long. As it approaches boiling, steam pours out of the spout and swirls around the lid. The design of the kettle lid makes it possible to pick it up to check the water without getting burned. In my brewing sessions with the stove I keep a pitcher of room temperature spring water close at hand to top up the kettle with fresh water as necessary. It is important not to let the water level get too low or shock the ceramic with water that is too cool when it’s over the burning charcoal, but adding water a little at a time is not a problem.

For more on the technique, read Tea Habitat’s Guide to using a Chao Zhou Stove Set.