Qimen (Keemun, Keemum, Pinyin 祁门), grown in Qimen County, in Anhui Province, is a tea I haven’t given enough attention to. Every time I drink it I find that it’s much more interesting and complex than I think it’s going to be, and Keemum Panda #1 from DAVIDsTEA is quite a nice example of a Qimen tea. Qimen is said to be “the burgundy of tea.” While I generally think that wine/tea analogies are rather silly and not terribly useful, if the intent is to convey that Qimen, like the wines of Burgundy, is darker in flavor and richer in complexity than other varieties of black tea, then I have to admit that the analogy has some merit. There is an underlying flavor distinct to Qimen that I can only describe as sort of woody or charcoal-like, but not at all like smoke, and it does have a bit of a red wine note. DAVIDsTEA’s description:
“It was the British, with their love of black tea, who inspired the invention of Keemum in a country that produced mostly green tea. An instant success in 1874, it is today considered a highly-prized tea in its native China. Our Panda #1 is a first rate specimen. Like a fine wine, it has hints of oak and a lovely burgundy depth, and when properly stored will take on a deeper, more mellow character.”
Indeed, black teas were not produced in Anhui Province until the mid 1870s, so this is not a tea with a terribly long history. Qimen teas were originally developed for the export market and they are often used in the blends sold as English Breakfast Tea today. I am sure that there was less growth in this particular varietal than might have happened if the trade with Britain had not collapsed near the end of the 19th century. In line with its history, Keemun Panda tastes to me like a tea cultivated for a more Western palate. It’s a very pretty red color and it is worthy of a second steeping, and even a third, depending on your personal preferences.
As I was concentrating on the flavor of the cup of Qimen that I was drinking I recognized something subtle in the taste of it that initially reminded me Russian blends, like a Russian Caravan, but not smoky. Then I remembered that Lapsong Souchong and Qimen are grown in the same region of China, Anhui Province. So I think I can reasonably say that the distinct note is the terroir of the area.
Edit: I can’t remember where I got the idea that Lapsang Souchong was produced in Anhui province, but I was mistaken. It is produced in Fujian Province.
Incidentally, the spelling of this tea’s name as “keemum” is one of the more unusual ones and even less common than “keemun.” “Qimen” is the standard Pinyin spelling.
There is some good additional information on the renowned congou Qimen tea called Panda #1 on the Hina’s Tea site. Note: the tea is not currently available on DAVIDsTEA’s website.
Cinnabar:
As always, a useful review.
I’m not a Keemun drinker, but I’m intrigued anyway. Because of the kind of goofy name (Panda tea), I probably would not have made a purchase, but your description of it as complex, with a charcoal-but-not-smoke flavor seems like it would be pleasing. Do you think that the charcoaliness (if that could possibly be a word) came from the roasting of the tea or something?
Also, I like that you used an English teacup service to enjoy the tea, because it is so closely associated with British tea drinking.
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Stevem Knoerr Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 3:09 pm
(And yes, I renamed myself Stevem for the occasion, in keeping with the DAVIDs TEA spelling conventions.)
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Cinnabar Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 3:32 pm
I noticed that. Awesome.
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Cinnabar Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 3:31 pm
Oddly enough, “Panda No. 1″ is the standard name for this particular Qimen. I haven’t found out the origin of the name, but lots of references call it that in combination with the gazillion spellings of “qimen.” It’s one of the higher end Qimen teas and pandas are not involved in the manufacturing process, as far as I can tell. They have entirely the wrong type of paws for processing congou teas.
I think that maybe there’s something in the processing of teas in Anhui Province that involves smoke, even when they’re not Lapsang Souchong. I should find out more about that…
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Stevem Knoerr Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 5:48 pm
I wonder if the pandas and monkeys who pick teas are in cahoots, somehow. Maybe the pandas outsource?
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Cinnabar Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 6:11 pm
I don’t think the pandas are smart enough to pick tea or outsource, sadly.
Stevem Knoerr Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 5:51 pm
It could be the terroir, as you noted. Anhui tea might all taste somewhat smokey, and perhaps the folks in Dong Mu Village thought, “Hey, let’s work with this by seeking to highlight, rather than mask, that natural smokiness.” And voila, Lapsang Souchong.
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Cinnabar Reply:
September 2nd, 2009 at 6:13 pm
That seems like a logical explanation to me. I should drink some more Qimen teas to see if they all have that faint smokiness. Of course now I’m looking for it, so my investigation is tainted.
Left by Stevem Knoerr on September 2nd, 2009
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Left by In Review: Aug 21-27 | Walker Tea Review on September 4th, 2009
I gave it a try and its very refreshing one. I love to have it again. Thanks for this article.
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Left by mincir on September 8th, 2009
Well the actual name of the brand is “Panda #1″. Many people say that Qimen teas have some smokiness. I should drink some more Qimen teas to see if they all have that faint smokiness.
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Left by acai on September 8th, 2009
Pretty teacup. What’s the origin?
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Cinnabar Reply:
September 12th, 2009 at 12:30 pm
A friend gave me that tea cup before she moved to London. The manufacturer’s stamp says “CDBG China” and “Made in Japan,” but I haven’t been able to find anything useful about the company.
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Webcowgirl Reply:
October 27th, 2009 at 3:03 am
Bought it in an antique shop. So happy to see it being used, so perfect that you’re drinking my favorite black tea out of it!
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Left by Georgia on September 9th, 2009
I love Keemum Panda #1. It is very spicy. Also its aroma is nice.
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Left by depression on September 11th, 2009
A black tea thread on Teachat regarding smokey flavor in Chinese and Indian teas has made me wonder if this isn’t a processing issue, when charcoal or wood smoke is used for drying and flavoring teas, by adding volatile esters (aromatic oil components from wood sap, for instance) to intensify inherent tea flavor.
In Keemun and related Lapsang teas, tea masters have begun to use other flavors, tart fruit aromas (maybe fruitwoods for drying), for example, to smoothly augment aroma and flavor without the bite associated with softwoods, like pine pitch or softer coals. Their tea doesn’t have to be aged to soften that smokey, almost acrid bitterness, of freshly processed smoked Chinese teas.
Typical Anhui subtype terrior may have subtle smoke-like attributes, but relatively few modern tea drinkers find these qualities desirable for everyday teas, other than as blender teas where they may add depth to a tea mixture.
I think your description of the body and depth of this tea suggests that its a better quality, maybe aged as is typical of higher grade Keemun teas.
If only tea retailers would provide us with a bit more information on the subtype and processing in their product description, they might find a dedicated following among tea sophisticates. A catchy product name is little more than window-dressing.
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Left by Passerby on September 12th, 2009
Sounds Really good! I just recently tried a Keemun Panda from a place called You, Me and Tea. It was really good and was impressed. Their prices were pretty reasonable and shipped out pretty quick. They have free shipping if you order $25.00…
HTTP://WWW.YOUMEANDTEA.COM
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Left by Alex on September 22nd, 2009
I just recently discovered Keemun too and I can vouch that it’s rather a Burgundy of Teas. This is all very interesting to learn, how the British inspired this fine specimen of catering to the West. Charcoal but not smoky with an Anhui terroir taste. If it’s a hint of roasty Oolong in a black tea I’m intrigued. –Teaternity
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Left by Jason Witt on September 23rd, 2009
The rich flavor and aroma of this tea gives a cooling effect to our clients when consumed. It is known for its physical or medicinal effects and is available at industry leading prices.
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Left by adaptateur on November 7th, 2009
“Then I remembered that Lapsong Souchong and Qimen are grown in the same region of China, Anhui Province. So I think I can reasonably say that the distinct note is the terroir of the area.”
Sorry, I’d like to say there is something wrong with it. Keemun is produced in Anhui province while Lapsang Souchong produced in Fujian province.
The only affinity is that quite a lot of tea experts in China thought, the father of Keemun tea learnt the black tea making skill in Fujian from Lapsang Souchong when he was once a public servant there.
You may find information about keemun here
http://www.viconyteas.com/keemun.html
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Cinnabar Reply:
February 10th, 2010 at 12:58 pm
Thank you for the correction. I remember checking this before I wrote the article and the source I read had misidentified where Lapsang Souchong is produced. I’ll have to check on where that was (and I’ll revise the article to correct the misleading assumption).
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Left by Richard on February 9th, 2010